Community Forum For "Alcohol Can Be A Gas" Readers
Just curious if someone could provide more concise information on just how dry ethanol must be to run in a FFV, a non-FFV, small engines (i.e. lawn mower), etc...
My first batch i over cooked and got more water out at the end that mixed with my good stuff.
So I ended up with 170 proof.
I took that and poured it into a glass bottle with 3A Zeolite and resulted in 198 proof.
I ran than in my lawn mower over the weekend (even though the Troybuilt mower had a NO E85 stamp in the fuel cap).
My 2nd batch with picked over pears/apples, I think I let the temp in the room it was fermenting in get too cool and my yeast died before they could do much converting. I was also testing a new electric heat belt on my 13 gallon test still and it took forever to get up to temperature (even with setting at 450F). Anyway, I managed a small amount of ethanol at 150 proof.
My 3rd batch with Jerusalem Artichokes (JA), which was a complete surprise, is still fermenting in a temp controlled room. In the spring I bought a JA about the size of my thumb. We had drough conditions in KY from June-Sept.; however, my JA stayed green and bloomed. I dug up the tubers and my 1 peice about 2 oz resulted in 1 plant with about 1.5 pounds of tubers. Nice yield on the plant and it survived on the dry conditions.
So back to my question, any simple ideas on the least proof to run in...
1. Non FFV
2. FFV (should not matter i think)
3. Small engines
a. Chain saw (need oil mixture?)
b. Lawn tractors/mowers
I have been reading some articles discussing how to use caster oil or glycerine to dry ethanol.
They are much more economical than zeolite.